Henry of Pelham, Riesling Icewine 2002

I had read a lot about Canadian Icewine for years, but I had never actually tried it until I flew in the First Class cabin of a British Airways flight from Washington to London in 2001.  The wine they served after dinner was a Riesling Icewine from Henry of Pelham.  I was hooked and resolved to try other Icewines and find out as much I could about them.  But I have never had an Icewine that is better than the ones from this little winery in St. Catharines, Ontario.

Icewines from Ontario are picked at temperatures from -8 to -13 degrees (centigrade).  The idea is that the grapes are frozen.  Then they are crushed enabling a separation of the water from the grape juice.  All grapes affected by botrytis cinerea (noble rot) are removed from the mix.  This results in age worthy, highly concentrated wine with a wonderful balance of sweetness and acidity.  I find they go nicely with rich pâté or blue cheese or fruit-based desserts.

I travel fairly often to Canada, and they sell Icewine at the duty free shops at the border.  Although I have tried many of them, I have never had better than those from Henry of Pelham, and, although they cost just a little bit more, I find that the Rieslings are much nicer than more commonly sold Vidals.

Tonight’s Riesling from Henry of Pelham was no disappointment.  Our guest wondered how Icewine fared with a little age on it.  My reply was that I did not know, but we would soon find out.  What a treat this was!

I had stored this wine in a wine refrigerator at 13 degrees Celsius since I bought it from the winery.  It was a little darker than I remember it when it was younger, but it had gained a nutty (hazelnuts?) complexity without losing any of its fruity acidity and freshness on the tip of the tongue as it enters your mouth.  It almost sparkled on the tip of the tongue.

To me, this is the gold standard in Canadian Icewine, and tonight’s experience showed that age only improves it.  If you are ever in the area, visit this winery.  The staff know their wines well and are honest in their assessment of the various vintages. I have been there twice and emerged on each occasion feeling more enlightened clutching my precious treasures.  By all means, try the Vidal, which is good.  But the few extra dollars for the Riesling are well spent.

I have had several years of the Icewine from Henry of Pelham, and I have never been disappointed.